Monday, July 15, 2013

How to Cover Dark Under Eye Circles with Sofia Black D'elia

Dark circles under your eyes can make you look tired and worn out even when you're not. Hiding dark circles can be very challenging. 
On my last film I was lucky enough to work with actress Sofia Black D'elia (in her early 20's). 
Sofia is one of the loveliest young women I have met and has a uniquely maternal instinct. Sofia's dark circles are hereditary so it's something she has dealt with her whole life and really wanted you to know how to hide them. She truly gets the credit for me creating this post for you. 

Over the years I've had lots of faces with dark under eye circles to play makeup "chef" with. I've tried many different products and created many different "recipes" with varying degrees of success. 
These are untouched photos of Sofia before and after her makeup in the makeup trailer. 
Sofia Black D'elia's dark circle under eye cover up recipe. Kim Greenes Makeup Tips from the Set

Sofia's under eye recipe: Urban Decay under eye Primer (yellow) + Judith August Orange Masking Cream (equal parts of each color) + Face Atelier #7 (tan) + Purely Cosmetics "Yellow Color Corrector" mixed with equal parts of Fusion of Color Cosmetics "Peach Frenzy matte blush".

The basic color correction for brown is salmon or orange. Keeping that in mind your recipe may need to be adjusted depending on your skin tone. For instance if you are a darker skin tone then Sofia use more of the darker color in the Judith August Orange Masking Cream and a darker foundation color and less of the yellow powder and more of the darker orange.
If you are lighter than Sofia do the opposite.

We did an impromptu photo shoot. (not in her costume or on the film set)
You can see from this photo what a warm and caring person she is!
Sofia Black D'elia. Photo and Makeup by Kim Greene. Hair by Melissa Yonkey

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Favorite Beauty, F/X and Art Books! by Greene Street Beauty

Since this is a group who loves to read I thought it appropriate to share this new video from one of my You Tube Channels Greene Street Beauty. Melissa Street and I share a bit about our favorite books that we've collected over our years as makeup artists.
Enjoy!! xo, kim

Favorite Beauty, FX and Art Books! by Greene Street Beauty

Books featured:
Irene Corey "The Face Is A Canvas"
Judith August "Gotcha Covered"
Phyllis Posnick/Era Respini "Extreme Beauty In Vogue"
Vera Lehndorff/Susan Sontag "Veruschka - Transfigurations"
Arne Svenson "Prisoners"
Debreceni "Special Makeup Effects"
Richard Corson 4th Edition "Stage Makeup"
Way Bandy "Styling Your Face"
Ray Morris "Beautiful Eyes"
Francois Nars "Make Up Your Mind"
Joe Blasco/Vincent Kehoe "The Professional Makeup Artist"
Randy Dauglin "Hurt 'Em Reel Good"

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Match This Makeup. Megan Fox in "This is 40"

I was the Makeup Dept Head on the film "This is 40" and Megan Fox was one of my characters. I'm not sure what I expected but Megan is not only gorgeous but turned out to be a really funny and interesting person. 
Let's chat about her makeup. I know you may be saying "She doesn't look like she has any on. Why are you even doing a post about this?" First of all she does have makeup on. It's subtle and correct for the scene. I think the biggest mistake people make is to over do makeup when it's not needed. With Megan in this scene I felt like my job was to enhance what was already beautiful about her and hide any small imperfections. 
I did have a number of a challenges in the scenes where Megan is swimming in a pool. I knew we would be shooting for hours and hours and she would be in the water most of the day. 
The scene calls for Megan to look natural with a no makeup look. Megan is ridiculously beautiful but like most of us she does have blemishes and her skin was a bit ruddy.  I needed to find base products for her face that would cover any blemishes or ruddiness and look like she had flawless skin. They also had to be water proof or at least water resistant. 
I ended up for this scene using Revlon Colorstay in Ivory. It stayed really well. I needed to touch up occasionally but it was a good choice and looked really pretty.  
The spot treatment I used was Judith August's Killer Cover. The product has castor oil in it which makes it water resistant and perhaps even water proof. I used the lightest tone in the wheel "Ivory".

You will notice that I used mostly cream makeup on Megan because it tends to stay on better when wet. 
I used La Prairie Cellular Radiance cream blush in "Berry Glow". This color looked perfect on her naturally pale skin tone and gave her just the right amount of flush in her cheeks. I really love how it looks on her in the film and in the photo above.
On her eyelids I used MAC's Paint Pot in "Ground Work". It's a long wearing cream eyeshadow in that perfect mid tone neutral taupe that doesn't look like makeup but still gives the eye good definition. 
I used Dior Show Black out water proof mascara. On her upper and lower lashes. 

On her lips I used Korres "Wild Rose" Lip butter. It's a lip balm that gives a rose tint to the lips. It has shea butter in it too so it's great for chapped lips. 
I used Senna's Sketch a Brow pencil in Dark Taupe on Megan's eyebrows just to fill in areas and to define the arch. 

Megan also has a number of tattoos and all of them needed to be covered and stay covered in the water.  We shot the pool scenes for a number of days. 
I had a few different people help me cover her tats on different days but I came up with the formula that we used. We made minor adjustments but basically this is what worked. 
We started with Pax Paint. It's basically colored glue which is why it stays so well. The only issue would have been if the water was warm which would have pulled it off. Fortunately the water was cold! 
The key is to stipple a number of colors in layers. Tones that together will match the skin tone. We used Olive 1, Ivory, Mauve Blusher and Highlight N 36-L.
This isn't a lesson in PAX paint application so I'm sorry that I'm not going into great detail on this. Perhaps I'll do a separate post on PAX application. 
Next we lightly applied ERA spray makeup over top in "R2" and then sealed with Ben Nye Final Seal. 

Yes, there were plenty of touch ups on those days when Megan was in the pool but it payed off. She looked very pretty and character correct and you can't see one single tattoo. (except the fake one that I applied for her character). 
If you have any questions please feel free to ask in the comment section below! 

Saturday, January 12, 2013

My latest film coming out! Identity Thief Trailer

We had an absolute blast making this film! I'm sure you can tell from the trailer. :)

Makeup Department (Credits)
Kimberly department head

Erin Wooldridge....key makeup artist
Kate Shorter...Melissa McCarthy's personal makeup artist
Layna artist
Quintessence artist
Michelle artist
Linda D. department head
Tijen Osman....assistant hair department head
Victoria Wood....wig maker
Bryson stylist

Information obtained from IMDB. If you worked on the film and are not listed please comment below and I will add you to this blog post. :), Kim