Sunday, July 31, 2011

You got a makeup question? I got an answer!

A few days ago Marla, who reads my blog, asked me to do a post about covering pimples and I really enjoyed writing a post that answered a specific question. Then today Tori, my niece, asked me how to do smokey eyes for a day and a night look.
So, it occurred to me that it would be great to do a type of a Q and A with you guys. I'm inviting you to ask me specific makeup related questions or questions about working in the film and television industry as a makeup artist.
I should clarify that as a professional artist I don't talk about actor's personal lives. I know, bummer, but it's not cool and I don't do it.
I'm really hoping I get some questions or suggestions for future posts. It sounds fun to me and a great way for us to get to know each other! You can put your comment/suggestion in the comment box here or you can Tweet it at @KimGreene3333

Saturday, July 30, 2011

How to safely cover a picked pimple.

Recently I was asked about covering a pimple that had been picked or scratched. She was concerned that covering the pimple would cause an infection if makeup was applied right on the open sore. Well, her instincts were right. Never put makeup on an open wound whether it's acne, a cut or a scrape. My tip is to apply New-Skin Liquid Bandage to the wound first with a q tip. It dries and forms a barrier that is antiseptic, flexible and waterproof. I usually add a second dab of New-Skin, let it dry completely and then apply makeup over that. Note: it will likely sting a bit, but only for a few seconds.
New-Skin liquid bandage

I know it's hard to stop yourself from picking but it can cause infection and even scarring. A better choice is to start a regiment that fights acne while it is still in the forming phase deep in your skin. I always have Proactive cleansers, toners and treatments in my makeup kit for actors who are acne prone. They even have foundations and powders that are natural looking and come in great color tones.
If your acne is severe it is best to go to a dermatologist.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Quick Tip - How to make your lips look fuller

One of the biggest requests I get as a makeup artist is "Can you make my lips look bigger?"
I have a couple tricks for you to make your lips appear fuller.
Take your foundation color and apply it with a sponge on top of your lips & then powder using a puff. Next use a lip liner in a natural tone following the line of your lip but just slightly above the natural lip line. Apply a lipstick color with a lip brush all over your lips and on top of the lip liner. Then apply a lip gloss that's a lighter color than your lipstick in the center of your upper and lower lips. The end result will be a fuller looking pout!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Getting to know you. The Hair and Makeup Artist Network

Sometimes as a freelance makeup or hair stylist it feels like you are all alone paving your way in a big overwhelming world.
How do I get more jobs?
Where can I meet other makeup & hair people with similar interests and goals?
What about legal resources? Insurance?

I want to tell you about this great organization, The Hair and Makeup Artist Network or HMAN.

It's a networking organization for professional hair and makeup artistsin in the US.
Michelle Lee, a pro artist herself, saw a need that wasn't being filled in the freelance makeup & hair business community and founded the network. She and her team, including Myrna Powell, are a wonderful group of people dedicated to the field and helping other artists.
Michelle Lee - HMAN Founder 

Here's some of the great things they offer:
•Videos: how to demos, character makeup, skincare, career marketing, and business related topics on how to advance your career.

•Networking events with Guest Speakers. I'll be guest speaking in September at a networking dinner. I'll post info as it gets closer.

•Articles on new products and topics related to work in the industry.

•Self Promotion Tools - including production listings, website/bus. card services, networking and marketing links, career counseling, employer listings, production listings, and job postings.

•Career tools and legal resources

•A Database of screened professional makeup and hair artists.

Michelle and her team are dedicated to ensuring that HMAN is made up of professional artists that are serious and dedicated to their craft.
My artist profile on HMAN.

It's a fantastic resource for people looking for artists for their productions, weddings, photo shoots, videos, etc.

So, whether you are an artist or a prospective employer this is a wonderful network to join.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Oldies but Goodies - Classic Products

Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor
In the 1960's Ron Berkely was Liz Taylor & Richard Burton's personal makeup artist. He has also Department Headed scores of films in his career including Oliver Stone's JFK in 1991. I was a young makeup artist living in Dallas at the time and he hired me as a local on the film to do background actors. When I moved to LA he asked me to work with him on Michael Jackson's video "Black or White" and later to be his Key on Pure Country.  Trust me when I tell you I was a sponge soaking up his knowledge of products, set etiquette & how to organize a makeup department.
My makeups on Michael Jackson's "Black or White"
As a dyed in the wool product junkie I can't help but to try new products but I thought it would be good to talk to you about the classic products I was introduced to over 20 years ago by Ron & other artists who mentored me. Those products that stand the test of time and never let you down. 
I'll start with LA Femme Translucent pressed Powders. It doesn't build up even if you re-apply it all day. It has almost no color and won't change the tone of your foundation or blush. It simply stops shine. That's it. It's super inexpensive (around $5).
I buy this powder by the dozen before every show and it is a staple in almost all my actor's bags. The #2 works for light to medium/dark skin tones. The  #1 works for fair skin tones.
La Femme Pressed Powder
RCMA foundations
The Research Council of Makeup Artists was founded by renowned make-up artist Vincent JR Kehoe in 1962.
I studied with Vincent when he was teaching in the mid 80's. He was a wonderful artist, educator and person. He passed a few years ago and it is a great loss to our community.
RCMA foundations come in the most extensive skin tones available for every ethnic group in the world. You will be amazed at the variety! 
The foundation is 50% pigment so in other words you can get a full coverage without using a lot of makeup. If you want a sheer coverage just add a foundation thinner or your favorite moisturizer. I use my palette knife and mix on a wax paper palette to my desired consistency.
RCMA bases contain only vegetable oils & pure waxes. No perfume, lanolin, petrolatum or mineral oil.
I have used many great foundations over the years but RCMA is the only one that has a permanent home in my kit. 
RCMA Foundations
Brenda Christian Universal Brow Definer
This eyebrow pencil is truly unique. It works by using the pH of your eyebrow hair follicle & changes color to match your natural eyebrow color. It self adjusts from light ash blond to dark warm brunette depending upon your color. 
Sounds crazy, right?! But it works. 
Apply it in small strokes following the growth of your hair. 
Brenda Christian Universal Brow Definer
Lancome dual finish powder:
This is a great powder type foundation that has natural coverage dry and fuller coverage wet. I was introduced to this product 20 years ago but I kinda forgot about it over the years. 
When I got into airbrushing a few years back I found that during a long shoot day the airbrush makeup would come off in places or get wet and make a line of demarcation.
It's not always easy to pull out your compressor on set so I needed something that could quickly fill in and fix the holes. I tried a few things and found that this dual finish powder worked really well. I use it dry with a sponge or puff. 
When i was working in Florida in the summer i discovered another great thing about this product. This may sound gross but it works amazingly well for people who sweat a lot. Think about it, it can be activated by water and sweat is water. The more they sweat the better it works! 
It also works as a final layer over body makeup or tattoo coverage to blend everything together smoothly.
It comes in over 20 colors and many come in a fragrance free formula.
Lancome Dual Finish Powder
The people who mentored me were confident people who shared their knowledge willingly. I learned from them that there is great reward in giving back. 
No matter where you are in your career there is much you can share and always something to learn.

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Want Kissable lips? - lip treatments that work

"Gone with the Wind"
Having dry chapped lips stinks.
It doesn't look good and it certainly doesn't feel good.
If you're about to star in your own kissing scene you want soft smooth lips right?!
I have some really good lip treatments that I want to share with you that will make your lips kissable soft in no time.

JOSIE MARAN Argan Lip Treatment
First of all, what is Argan oil? It's created from Argan tree nuts native to Morocco. This rare oil has anti-aging properties, helps prevent dehydration, inflammation, hyper pigmentation, and sebum production.
Argan Tree, Argan Oil
The lip treatment comes in a darling pot that looks great on your station or vanity. It has a hint of green apple flavor that I really like and a smooth consistency. But most importantly it makes your lips feel amazingly soft. I found it at Sophora and I'll be going back to get more of Josie Maran's products.

Josie Maran Argan Lip Treatment

Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment SPF 15
What do I like about it?
Well, first of all it has sugar in it! Lol Actually, sugar is a natural humectant and with their blend of blackcurrent oil, grape seed oil and Vitamins A, C and E it makes a wonderful lip treatment that moistens, nourishes and has antioxidant properties.
It also has a nice citrus scent and comes in clear, rose, honey and plum tones. 
Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment
Dr Hauschka Lip balm

I love Dr Hauschka's products and their lip balm is no exception.
Calendua and St. Johnswort extracts, silk, Jojoba & wheat germ oils add up to a intensely moisturizing, strenghthening and renewing lip treatment.
It has the traditional Dr. Hauschka scent that I adore and it's a tried and true favorite of mine.

Dr. Hauschka Lip Balm

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Quick Tip: When does makeup go bad?

Not all makeup has expiration dates. In fact, most don't.
But the truth is that makeup does go bad. You need to protect yourself or your makeup clients from irritations or infections.
So how can you tell if your makeup has gone bad?
Lipstick will tend to get sticky and the smell will change.
Foundations can separate in the bottle.
Mascara will change odor & dry out.
Nail polish will thicken.
But there are plenty of products that look and smell fine but are in fact past their prime. See below for a time guideline that tells you when you should toss your products.

Fresh Tips:

  • Any products with water tend to go bad faster.  Like liquid foundation, liquid eyeliner tubes, cream blush, cream shadow, lipstick and mascara. Bacteria really like water!
  • Mascara can also go bad before it's time if you pump the wand — that pushes air into the tube, causing it to dry out faster. Instead, slowly draw out and twist the brush to scrape the tube’s interior and pick up product.
  • Powder items like eye shadows, blushes, setting powders are less prone to contamination but do have a lifespan.
  • Pencil eyeliners and lip liners stay fresh longer if you sharpen them on a regular basis.
  • Use a sponge or a brush instead of your fingers to keep bacteria and oils from contaminating your makeup. If you do use your fingers, wash and dry them before doing so.
  • Wash your brushes a minimum of once a week with a brush cleaner or a gentle shampoo.
  • Replace your makeup sponge once a week or buy a sponge that can be washed & wash it a minimum of once a week.  (Obviously if you are a professional makeup artist you will clean your tools between every client.)

Here's a guideline for you to follow:*

•    Blush – 2 years
•    Blush (cream) – 18 months
•    Concealer – 18 months
•    Eye shadow (cream) – 18 months
•    Eye shadow (powder) – 2 years
•    Eyeliner – 18 months
•    Eyeliner (liquid) – 6 months
•    Foundation (cream) – 18 months
•    Foundation (oil-free) – 1 year
•    Lip gloss – 2 years
•    Lip liner – 2 years
•    Lipstick – 2 years
•    Mascara – 3 months
•    Nail polish – 1 year
•    Powder – 2 years

*beauty school directory